Eco - Ethical in Jewelry Design - Bill Gallagher of Lori Bonn

"If you make sustainability your business - you will sustain your business."

Thanks to Bill Gallagher - this year's talk was great and very informative with actionable steps and a list of resources.

So - how about you and your jewelry design business?

Ethical - Ecological - Recycled - Fair Trade - Certified Fair Trade?

Have you started in some small way to green your business practices - and your products?





You may have all been hearing about the below freezing temps in Tucson this year - check out the great photo that Ann Marie took of a fountain on our way home last night!!!


BTW - this fountain is across the street from Gabrielle Giffords Congressional Office. The flowers, notes and candles that are building up in front of the office are very touching.

WholeBead Show at the Windmill Inn

This is a first for my blog - I have never covered this show before...mostly the location is pretty far from the rest of the shows AND I am really not much of a beadgirl.   So - that being said, when I got a note that one of my original Twitter friends was showing there I decided it was time to check it out!

While this show is a little out of the way...they provide shuttle service so it is an easy destination...and it was PACKED!  My roomate, Ann Marie of Heart's Desire Jewelry, needed to stop at Saki Silver so we made a trip out.


There are lots of great vendors at this show...in my limited time there, these are the ones that stood out for me!


Just inside the lobby was a Bay Area gem bead dealer, Best Bead Shop, that Ann Marie knew...he has some really fine and unusual beads in pyrite, moss agate, included quartz (many varieties).  Beautiful quality and above and beyond that Sanjay and Amy Margaret are delightful to deal with.  I love to shop where the workers are having fun!  (note: they are listed at the show as Rocky's Designs)

Next stop Saki Silver - I really wanted to get you a shot of this room - and just as we were leaving it cleared out enough to see just how extensive the array of clasps, beadcaps and findings is from this company. 







If you want Silver from Saki you had to go to this venue because their booth at Best Bead only handles Copper, Brass and Shibuichi.  Meeting a wholesale minimum at this shop isn't hard to do.

Last but not least - my girl Heather...long long ago (;-p) at the advent of Twitter there really weren't a lot of jewelry folks using the platform and you had time to get to know each other.  Heather Parker DiSimone is @BeadinPath on Twitter, her shop The Beadin Path in Freeport, Maine specializes in Vintage - Metals and Acrylic.  


When I walked into her room she was giving a great demo of the new Riveting & Piercing Tool by Crafted Findings. What a fabulous tool - as a Metalsmith I will solder a join just to not have the struggle of riveting, but this tool really simplifies the process, from piercing the hole to adding the rivet.  I will be posting more on this tool on the Daily Jewel.


All week I have been searching for the latest Pantone Pink - Honeysuckle - have you seen it? found a great tray of vintage acrylic beads at The Beadin Path for you!


Speaking of Twitter - if you haven't checked out the Twitter Hub for the Tucson Gem Show - you should!
http://twubs.com/tucsongemshow/

Renee Newman Debuts New Book At AGTA GemFair...

Today at AGTA GemFair, Renee Newman debuted the newest edition of her Exotic Gems series at the NAJA booth.

Also available were her other guides - I picked up a copy of "The Pearl Buying Guide" for one our roommates - it always feels special to have an autographed copy of a good reference.

Introducing - Exotic Gems Vol. 2

In words that everyone can understand Renee Newman walks you through the chemical, physical and optical qualities and then she takes you to the mines, shows you what it takes to cut some of these exotics and then finishes up with some of the most gorgeous photos of faceted gems, carved gems and gems in jewelry...and she even talks about the Metaphysical Lore of the gem.

The popularity of the television shopping networks has opened up a new era in gems in jewelry - there was a day when some faceted gems and beads on the market today were considered to soft for jewelry and they were only available as specimens for mineral collectors - those days are gone and this series gives us the information we need to make decisions about using these materials in jewelry and for those looking to purchase them.

With over 400 photos - this book is worth buying just for the "eye candy" value - delightful to see such a great range from bridge to fine jewelry - cutters to carvers. 

The new book will be available through the normal resources and the NAJA by the end of the month...Volume One is up at Amazon  and Barnes & Noble now.

Tucson: 15th Annual Orchid Dinner

WOW - what a great group of people showed up for the 15th Annual Orchid Dinner at TGIFriday's!


A big thanks go out the our wonderful host Dave Arens for setting everything up ahead of time and keeping the action rolling all night, what a charmer!  


The anticipation was palpable when Maureen BZap stealthily announced that it was raffle time and everyone should get their tickets out!  Why?  What were we raffling off?


From the generous Kevin Potter:
5 pancake dies (various patterns)
5 blanking dies (various patterns)
...and he brought in one of his Hydraulic Jewelry Presses for show & tell!


From the always supportive Charles Lewton Brain:
Lost Books: Chasing and Repoussé - Lewton-Brain Just Published CD!
Cheap Thrills in the Tool Shop -- Lewton-Brain
Gold Surface Applications: A Technology Review -- Lewton-Brain 
Making a Chain Tool for Chasing - Lewton-Brain 
Build Your Own Draw Bench Instructions -- Lewton-Brain 

...and from the "The Saw Guy"  Lee Marshall:
5" Knew Concept Saw with a brand new "Quick Release" lever (not yet on the market)
(for those of you who aren't familiar with the evolution of the "red saws" - Cynthia Eid tells the story on her Orchid Blog )
...Lee we love that you trust us with your latest and greatest inventions and updates ♥

The room hummed all night, people getting to finally put a face with the name they have seen forever...and some that have never posted but will probably be more involved as a result.



Thanks to everyone who attended and made it a special night - I really enjoyed meeting each and everyone of you...and checking out your jewelry as you signed in ;)

Inside the Designer Pavilion with Galatea!

As I mentioned in my previous post - photos aren't allowed at AGTA Gemfair - unless a Designer gives permission and so here you go...an exclusive look at what's new from one of my favorites...Galatea!




"Galatea: Jewelry by Artist is the creation of Chi Galatea Huynh. Known for its hand-sculpted pearls, Diamond In a Pearl and gem-enucleated Galatea Pearl jewelry."

You may all know Galatea as the "Diamond In A Pearl" people and don't worry there are still producing these beauties, along with various gemstone bead nucleated pearls...but here in Tucson they are introducing several new designs and unique new ideas in pearls and beyond!

People who aren't familiar with the product assume these pearlescent beauties are laser carved - but each one of the pearls are hand carved to reveal the unexpected burst of color provided by the gemstone nucleated pearl.

One new twist on the hand carved pearls are what I am referring to as hand etched pearls (sorry for taking liberties Barbara).  Luscious  Black Tahitian Pearls with an undulating wave pattern hand etched into the surface of the pearl.  Why do I describe these as etched rather than carved?  the cut doesn't go through to the nucleation layer, only through a few layers of nacre.  This gives you the peacock surface of each pearl juxtaposed against a solid black layer causing an almost glittering effect...these HAVE to be seen in person!




The next new item that caught my eye was this ring that featured Abalone!   Clean, sculptural lines made simply elegant with the added punch of color from the mother of pearl - this may be my new favorite!

Also just introduced - 3DGaletea!  "3D Galatea turns any jewelry sketch into a stunning 3D rendering within 3 business days for the lowest price--guaranteed."

I am not going into detail here - but keep an eye on The Daily Jewel blog for a feature on the new designs and  their new division 3DGalatea!

* Just as an aside - I am not picking on AGTA for their no cameras policy - I totally understand the need for security measures and would in no way publish a photo that would endanger someone - I try shoot photographs without faces.  I am just a smarty pants by nature ;)

MJSA: At The Bench Live! at AGTA GemFair

MJSA partners with Southestern Findings for one of the most educational concepts at the show...from their website:

MJSA’s At the Bench Live

There’s nothing like learning from the masters—and jewelers who attend MJSA’s At the Bench Live seminars do just that. Featuring the industry’s most renowned experts, At the Bench Live offers a blend of best practices and innovative ideas. It creates an atmosphere in which questions can be posed, solutions offered, and problems solved. And it ensures that attendees can walk way with a bit more technical mastery at their command.

I stopped in yesterday to catch this one:

February 2
Black and Back: Finishing and Detailing Sterling Jewelry
Presenter: Arthur Anton Skuratowicz
With gold at record-high prices, sterling silver is becoming the favored alloy among both professional jewelry designers and consumers-which means more bench jewelers will have to deal with the alloy’s natural tendency to tarnish and oxidize. Learn how to both bring back silver’s shine and strategically use oxidation as a decorative element.




Arthur Skuratowicz is exactly what I love in an educator - he doesn't talk over your head and he encourages you to think for yourself,  all with a laid back and very personable attitude.

Arthur Anton Skuratowicz, GJG (GIA), is Director of Education at the Jewelry Training Centerin Colorado Spring, Colorado, and a Senior Member of the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers. He and his wife, Julie Nash, are co-authors of Working with Gemstones: A Bench Jeweler’s Guide (MJSA Press).






He addressed a standing room only crowd  and with the large screen and great camera placement, everyone could view the demo like you were looking over his shoulder.



Once again - BRAVO to MJSA & Southeastern Findings for this great series...for details about these demonstrations and other opportunities to catch the series at future events check the MJSA website!

At The Bench Live Schedule:  the week finishes off with the following:
February 3

In the Loop: Textile Techniques in Jewelry Making
Presenter: Michael David Sturlin

By applying textile techniques such as crocheting and weaving to the art of jewelry making, artists can create intricate pieces that are both flexible and lightweight. In this seminar, Michael David Sturlin demonstrates his own crocheting technique, and also offers examples of and insights into other artists’ textile applications.

February 4
Treat or Trick: 
Identifying and Working with Treated Gems at the Bench
Presenter: Arthur Anton Skuratowicz

Most gem-set jewelry that crosses a jeweler’s bench contains treated stones. Sometimes, such as with the recent rash of lead-glass-filled rubies, these treatments aren’t known until the stone fractures or discolors once the job is underway. Learn how to spot common treatments, as well as how to handle a variety of commonly treated stones.

February 5
Filigree Face-off, Part 1: Creating an Edwardian-Style Pendant by Hand
Presenter: Lee Krombholz

In the first session of this two-part seminar, Lee Krombholz hand-fabricates a modern filigree-style disc pendant from sheet stock—dapping the contours, sketching the design, piercing the metal, adding bezels, setting repurposed diamonds, and doing the finishing and millgraining—in an attempt to create the lightest-weight pendant possible (a necessity in an age of sky-high gold prices).

February 6
Filigree Face-off, Part 2: Creating an Edwardian-Style Pendant with CAD
Presenter: Lee Krombholz

In the second session of this two-part seminar, Krombholz creates the same filigree pendant as in the first session, only this time in CAD—experimenting with casting tolerances, re-piercing the design, setting the diamonds, and doing a final finish. The time needed to complete the CAD project, along with any inherent challenges, will then be compared to the hand-fabrication process, and the two pendants will be evaluated to see which process produced the lightest-weight piece. (The presenter thanks caster Tom Primavera, whose predilection for hand-fabrication techniques inspired this "face-off.")

AGTA - Photos of the Floor

Cameras aren't allowed at AGTA so...I got some shots of the Education & Information Aisle at the top of the show venue and some overhead photos of the show floor.

From the signage you see immediately that there is a lot to see at the AGTA GemFair!!!

From check - in the first thing you see and probably my favorite area of the show is the Grand Ballroom.  This houses the Spectrum of Design Jewelry Pavilion, Antique & Estate Jewelry Pavilion and the Tools & Equipment Pavilion.

You can see all those amazing Spectrum Award winning Jewelry Designs and the Cutting Edge Gem Cutting Award winners up close and personal.

Spectrum of Design Jewelry Pavilion:
The Designers featured in this area are true trendsetters in the Industry, and one thing I wasn't aware of they are all doing business in North America.  Here you will find gorgeous work by Designers like;  Mark Schneider, Todd Reed, Sarah Graham and Alishan to name a few.

Antique & Estate Jewelry Pavilion
This area is filled with fabulous one of a kind pieces, antique gem and pearl jewelry from a variety of vendors. Be sure to stop in a see eFiligree - aside from their stunning displays of Cameo Habilles & more traditional Cameos - they feature a great array of authentic fully restored filigree mountings for engagement rings.

Tools & Equipment Pavilion
Here you will everything you need to make and market your beautiful creations...software, display, packaging, tools, and several refiners are available to answer your need for metal!  Southeastern Findings booth is a tool geek's oasis!  and don't forget to stop in an talk to United Precious Metal Refiners about their proprietary non-tarnish silver alloy!


Also on this floor is their Education & Information aisle which features trade press publications like JCK and Southern Jewelry News & Mid-America News.  Followed by trade associations; Cultured Pearl Assoc., National Assoc. of Jewelry Appraisers, etc.  Finished the hall with Schools - Jewelry Design Schools and Gemology Schools alike...this is where you will find GIA, Canadian Institute of Gemology and the California Institute of Jewelry Training.

Downstairs in the Gem Hall is where the action is this year their is a separate Colored Diamond Pavilion on the show floor and of course my most inspiring moment was meeting Etienne Perret and his son Michael.  I have seen the designs on Facebook and in many magazine articles but if you get the opportunity, see it in person!  Michael gave us a great talk on the Gem Ceramic used in most of the designs...OK, I'm gushing - back to the AGTA.



The addition this year of an Internet area on the show floor made verifying and taking orders easier and the Lounge was a comfortable way to end a long journey across a large show floor!   ....wonder if they'd notice if  I just curl up and stay!

I Discovered the Rainforest in Tucson...

I have been chatting with Rainforest Design on Twitter (she is @RainforestDesign)  and since we are both in Tucson we decided to meet up!  I have to tell you I have a new favorite vendor for carvings.  These are cameo type carved shell but done in a whole new way!  


You won't confuse these with your grandmother's Italian cameos...these are fresh new designs of flora and fauna, and everything in between, that the indigenous people in Panama are famous for carving in tagua.  




The cameos are carved from the Queen’s Helmet shell (Cassis madagascariensis spinella) found in the waters of the Caribbean, also known as “Sardonyx”.  




Sweet butterflies and hummingbirds sit next to frogs and geckos with a sea-life assortment on the next shelf.


These are modern pieces that will become the cherished heirlooms of your grandchildren.


I snapped a few quick shots but there will be a full write up on the Daily Jewel blog soon.


You will find Rainforest Design sharing a corner of the Gem-Fare Room:
Arizona Mineral & Fossil Show
Hotel Tucson City Center - Room 153

Tucson Gem & Mineral Show - the "Main Show"

I love this ad from the Tucson Convention & Visitors Bureau featuring internationally known expert & collector, Peter Megaw, PhD...

  

Peter is the Exhibits Chair for the TGMS - this is excepted from the Fabre Mineral Forum:

Speaking as Exhibits Chair for the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show (tm) I am pleased to announce that we will have some truly spectacular exhibits this year. The theme is Minerals of California and there are at least 40 museum and private exhibits playing to that theme including several "group-shoot" cases with pegmatite minerals from Southern California that should be superb. This will include the first public unveiling of a magnificent brand-new find from the Oceanview Mine...resetting the standard for California kunzite.

For those jaded with pegmatites...there will also be a strong showing of non-pegmatite species...including some secondary base metal species that may blow your mind.

We will also host the first US Showing of the 774 ounce "Ausrox Nugget" from Australia, the third largest in captivity...and pretty to boot! Another highlight is the first US Showing of the Caerhays-Williams collection of classic Cornwall minerals...recently rescued from obscurity in the basement of a Cornish manor house!

This year will also feature a group of 12 exhibits of Calcite, organized by a cadre of die-hard calcite collectors including Chuck Houser, Phil Richardson and Terry Huizing. This will include worldwide killers, pseudomorphs, twins, fossils, speleothems (sensu latu...ie not ripped from wild caves) and a half dozen locality cases.

Plus the usual array of competitive and other exhibits featuring the best minerals in the world...and dealers to buy them from. 

Meet The Author...Book Signings at the NAJA Booth!

TERRA SPINEL! A New Book - Available at GJX

Terra Spinel — Terra Firma

A New Book Celebrating the Spinel Gems & the Lands from Which They Come

By Vladyslav Y. Yavorskyy
With Richard W. Hughes

In spinel, we have a mineral that forms some of the world’s most beautiful gems. And yet few know its name and fewer still understand its importance. This is truly a tragedy, for fine spinels can and do stand with any gem on the planet. From royal treasuries, through the elite private collections, to the haute culture salons of Paris, Geneva, New York, Tokyo, Hong Kong and London, spinel is both represented and the object of desire.

For the first time, we have a major monograph devoted to the spinel gems.

As Vlad Yavorskyy says in the book’s Foreword:

This remarkable collection of spinel pieces has been created with love and care over the past two decades. When I look for fine stones, I try to focus on the deepest nuances of color, brilliance, and shape. It is my sincerest hope that you will find my work worthy.

But not only am I a person involved in the “lives” of gems, but also in the lives of others. Thus I feel it incumbent on me to share my passion and knowledge of my craft and art, so as to foster and assist new enthusiasts in the field. My true goal is thus: I hope the words and images you see on these pages will inspire and provide increased insight and passion for spinel.

Terra Spinel is the culmination of a lifetime’s collecting by Vlad Yavorskyy. Not a technical book nor a gemology book, but a simple celebration of the spinel gems and the lands from which they come. Profusely illustrated and beautifully printed, it is a book that all spinel collectors should own.

Availability

Tucson
GJX Show (the 'Tent'): 1–6 February 2011. Yavorskyy, Booth 404 & 504

Online
Sample pages and an online ordering form are available at: http://www.spinelbook.com

When buying online or at the show, please let Vlad Yavorskyy know if you first learned about this book through Richard Hughes/Ruby-Sapphire.com.

ISG at Tucson 2011: Lab Update Invitation

This is a reprint of an announcement from Robert James of the International School of Gemology:

 

The ISG would like to extend an open invitation to all members of the industry to attend our ISG Lab Update seminar at the Hotel Arizona on Friday, 4 February. We have important new information on a variety of issues and topics that you will need to know in the upcoming year. The ISG Lab Update is free to the industry and includes a free continental breakfast and/or coffee and drinks. We promise to be finished in time for you to return to your booth in time for the show start. Here is the schedule on Friday morning, 4 February at the Hotel Arizona:

0730hrs – 0800hrs Continental Breakfast and Coffee     

    

0800hrs – 0830hrs  “The GL Gem Spectrometer and Advanced Gem Testing” presented by Wolf Kuehn, Canadian Institute of Gemmology. Come learn about the most important advancements in gemological testing and technology in decades from one of the industry authorities in gemology and gemological testing.

0830hrs – 0840hrs Coffee Break

0840hrs – 0930hrs ISG Lab Updates: An Evaluation of Abduriyim’s Andesine Reports, New Images of Dyefused Tourmaline, Tanzanite, and more…

 

 

 

Damage Evaluations Europe

 

The ISG is the only gemology school in the world that offers licensed insurance professionals who provide services to the world wide insurance industry. Come here about the latest work by the ISG staff regarding major diamond claims investigations in the US and Europe.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Evaluation of Abduriyim's Tibet Andesine

 

Based on our www.TibetAndesine.com website, come get the inside evaluation of the claimed "Tibet andesine" reports by Abduriyim and the GAAJ. We use grass roots methods up to advanced analytical techniques to shine an insurance investigation light on this story of Tibet andesine and the people behind it.

 

Paraiba Tourmaline? We Don't Think So 

 

 The Lab Manual Harmonization Committee says the stone at left can be called a "Paraiba tourmaline". Come see just how this stone is treated and decide for yourself whether the LMHC decision was in the best interest of the industry.

 

 

 

 

 Why So Many Cheap Tanzanites?

 

If you are wondering why there appears to be so many cheap tanzanites suddenly on the market, we have the answer. Don't miss this look at the dyefusion of yellow zoisite in order to artificially create many of those tanzanites you are seeing on the market.

 

 

 

 

 

 ISG Presentation: The Story of Andesine

 

At the Third Annual ISG Reception on Friday night we will have a special presentation display of The Story of Andesine. This special presentation will let you get a first hand view of just what this andesine thing is all about. And its not just about andesine, but rather how the industry will handle this kind of thing in the future. Don't miss this one time opportunity to see the actual specimens used to expose this fiasco, and some grass roots methods you can use to identify these and other treated gemstones for yourself. The ISG Reception is free to the industry.

 

 

3rd Annual ISG Industry Reception ........and

The First & Last ISG Andesine Exposition (we hope)
Friday 4 February 1800hrs until we float the keg     Hotel Arizona

Join us for free food and drinks, and meet the ISG Community. We will have our special Andesine Exposition to display the actual specimens to show you what this whole andesine thing has been all about. Special door prizes and fun will be had all night. This year we have the Polygon members joining us which promises to make this the most fun ISG Reception ever! Don’t miss it.

This is going to be the biggest year ever for the ISG at Tucson crowds and events. Please be early to the activities to insure we get started on time.

 

We look forward to seeing everyone at Tucson. Travel Safe. Bon Voyage!

 

Robert James

President, International School of Gemology

 

Having problems seeing the images? Click here to see this page in the ISG Community Forums.

 

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Final Gemfrance Update: Dr. Laurent Sikirdji requested the opportunity to post a rebuttal/response to our report on his Congo andesine here in this newsletter. We agreed to publish his response in its entirety here today. We never received this rebuttal/response from him. We consider the matter closed as far as our office is concerned.

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