Showing posts with label Diana Jarrett. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Diana Jarrett. Show all posts

Monday, February 15, 2010

Bantering Bartering Buying--The GemFair 2010 Experience

Guest post by my favorite gem writer...Diana Jarrett, GG RMV Member NAJA


More upbeat than last year's dismal fair, the AGTA GemFair and its sister the Gem and Jewelry Expo (GJX) in Tucson saw the kind of action that made vendors hopeful for the first time in months this February. AGTA reported a 7% increase in attendance over last year.


One exhibitor graded his Tucson experience C+ against last year's F-. Ok, then, that's a good sign. All parties would agree however, that buyers were spending this time around.

Where big money was not tossed around, some money was, as buyers thought of ways to stretch their dollar.


Vendors were prepared for bargain shoppers and came ready to deliver. One of the most obvious signs that buyers wanted more mileage for their buck were the alternative metals that offered a hedge against the gold price shock that many retailers are struggling with. Titanium, clay metals, and proprietary blackened metals were offered in innovative designs, especially at the couture section.

Photo: Specialty metals with Titanium in Mokume Gane process make for a mesmerizing metal choice in this diamond studded pendant. First Place Contemporary Metal Jewelry Under $1,000 JCK Jewelers Choice Awards 2010. Photo Courtesy: Luis Valderrama-Spectore Corporation/Edward Mirell.

Buyers also found more goods-for-the-gelt by snapping up exotic gemstones. But the name leaves some buyers a bit off balance. What stones actually warrant the exotic designation anyway? They can be new stones that have just found their way to the trading floor and all those unusual types of organic materials that green-grabbers are going ga-ga for at the moment.


Photo: Ammolite is finding enthusiastic buyers. The blue coloring is especially collectible. Photo: Courtesy: Solid Gold Jewellery


So Ammolite, a colorful natural material derived from fossilized ammonite shells of the Northwest were hot buys. Also newly mined stones, including the mysterious Evergreen Quartz that Out of Our Mines sold were exotic. What's in those crystal quartz cabs that create interesting forest green patterns inside? Stay tuned, they are working on it.


Photo: Evergreen Quartz cabochon is a new find. Photo Courtesy: Out of Our Mines

Bangkok's Freaking Cat gems are another source for the odd-ball, exotic and unpronounceable gemstones that make designers look light years ahead of the curve. What was their most dwindling supply? Fordite. Yes, the ultimate green gemstone. The banded colors on this 'rough' material are actually umpteen layers of Ford Motor Corp. car paint colors from the 1970s that landed in --uh--a landfill we think. Anyway, Freaking Cat told us that last year about 400 pounds of the material was available, this year he could not get his hands on bupkus. Like all one source only gems--when it's gone it's gone and this stuff has become highly sought after and is about to become extinct.


Renee Newman saw first hand the interest being paid to exotic gems. This was the ideal time for her to debut her hot off her own presses Exotic Gems Volume 1 which is the primer for deciphering exotic gems and arming retailers with a lexicon for conveying their unique traits when selling these lovelies. But consumers should grab this reference guide too. It explains what to look for when buying these uncommon stones and it is profusely illustrated.


Pearls in newer varieties fared well at the fair. More freshwater selections were available in yummy pastel colors this year. Chinese freshwater pearls are avidly collected owing to their extremely high luster. And South Seas pearl seller Yokozuma drew a crowd with their luminous South Seas multicolor pastel strands priced at $1,300.


Photo: Multicolor natural color pearl strand in 18 inch length with white gold and diamond toggle clasp. Photo Courtesy: Baggins Inc., Los Angeles.

Los Angeles based Baggins Inc., is a perennial Tucson favorite where buyers return for pure luxe. The deep toned multi-color strands are assembled with expert attention paid to the details of matching shape, luster, and size; no small feat when you are working with natural organic material. But they do a stunning job of all that plus finessing the symmetry and balance in every strand. The result? Perfection plus. Their 18 inch natural color strands are tastefully finished with an18K white gold and pave` diamond clasp at an SRP of $14,000.


Did somebody say turquoise? I think it was Pantone; the color trend forecasters who help us plan our style-conscious future--one year at a time. Vendors brought a boat load of turquoise strands, and beads, mostly in the Kingman and Sleeping Beauty varieties. Pretty stuff--tight graining makes for smooth finishes and a high gloss, free of any sort of veining or matrix.

Colorful diamonds were a crowd pleaser this year. Just how many years back was it when diamonds were scarce at Tucson? Not any more. Prominently positioned aisles resplendent with both natural and enhanced colored diamonds seemed to be a natural for the Tucson experience. Blackies were still snapped up, mostly because of their attractive prices. Yellow diamonds were called for because so much fuss has stirred up about them in auctions this past year.


In a word--restocking. The buyers were there to stock inventory creatively by bargain shopping and exotic stone scouring to entice buy-shy customers who've let jewelry collecting take a really really back seat for a while. It was a very good sign in the desert at Tucson.


You can follow more from Diana Jarrett in the many publications that she writes for and on her Color-n-Ice Blog

Monday, May 18, 2009

Twitter Feed - Colored Stones in Antique Jewelry



"Colored Gemstones in Antique Jewelry" with Diana Jarrett, G.G., RMV.

Diana Jarrett has written articles for most of the trade publications and is a respected gemologist and appraiser. She recently updated the book "Cameos: Old & New" byAnna Miller, G.G. RMV. Following the recent passing of Ms. Miller the publisher sought to update the information in this popular reasource guide. Diana took on the task of updating info, adding new photos and general revisions in this 4th Edition. She was available to talk to and signing copies of her book at the AGTA show.
__________________________________


This is my "live" Twitter feed from the Seminar - as you can see - while I was posting, people who follow
me on Twitter were commenting and asking questions. This is done "on the fly" while the seminar is presented - please excuse spelling errors and disjointed comments.
__________________________________

"Colored Gemstones in Antique Jewelry" by Diane Jarrett starts in 15 minutes! #TGS

We are getting ready to start - "Colored Gemstones in Antique Jewelry" - we are in the Graham Room at the Tucson Convention Center #TGS

#TGS Not many colored gemstones were available for jewelry - political unrest! Distance...slow transport

Jewelry became part of search for beauty as opposed to just Religious adornment #TGS

Pearls used were natural - sapphire and amethyst were used - mountings were more sculptural - cuts simple #TGS

#TGS - new colors of spinel, pink topaz, pearls, rock crystal, emerald , sapphire and hair were all used in Georgian Jewelry


Louis XIV "Sun King" 1643 - 1715 - it was said that he glimmered from head to toe with Diamonds #TGS

Must have - 4th Edition of Cameos - Old & New - Ultimate Cameo and Carved Gem Reference Guide #TGS


#TGS Victorian - during the reign of Queen Victoria sample shown Victorian Mourning Earrings in Onyx - dark ruled after death of the king

Travernier was the most famous of the jewel providers to the king - famous for the French Blue and the Hortensia Pink Diamonds #TGS

Interested - in Antique Jewelry? Seminar - Gemstone Editor for Rappaport talk about Colored Stones in Antique Jewelry! #TGS

#TGS 18th Century - Georgian Era - Age of Innovation in jewelry - great experimentation - created jewelry for the rising middle class

#TGS each era seemed to be a complete switch from the previous

Diamonds in that day came from the Golconda Mines in India - 5 years to get to the mines and bring them back to your king! #TGS

#TGS - Paste (imitation stones) with pinchbeck (a golden metal), foil and the foundations of synthetic gems.


#TGS Modern Antiquity - Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, Art Deco
Rubies and large Baroque Pearls were common - in Royalty the men wore more jewelry #TGS

#TGS European Renassance 14-17th Century - we have to rely on paintings from the master painters

#TGS Early Victorian - 18-22kt gold and romantic designs - birds, hands, flowers lots of diamonds.


Mid Victorian Era - Coral, Ivory, Miniature Mosaic, colorful stones #TGS

Jewelry - used topaz, zircon and Turquoise with gold and diamonds in the Victorian Era #TGS

GIA - ICA - AGTA - AGS - there are a number of trade organizations so we are protected when we buy colored stones today. #TGS


Various forms of enamel were preferred to replicate naturals forms and objects #TGS

if you are replying to my posts from the Tucson Gem Show - remember to add the #TGS - then everyone can find the messages.

Art Deco 1920-1935 linear shapes andlines - geometrical and architectural lines in jewelry - alot of black & white #TGS


Effect of globalization of the trade in Colored Stones - info exchange about availability & access to Colored Stones and Organizations #TGS

What you WON"T see in Antique Jewelry - modern cuts - Demantoid, Tsavorite, Tanzanite, Kunzite and Morganite - cultured pearls #TGS

Know when colored stones were discovered - know when pearl culturing was invented #TGS


Platinum and colored diamonds - fine lacey looking metalwork with a "knife edging" technique - flat culet on the stones #TGS

Queen Elizabeth had a square cut diamond and platinum ring made for her during this period and the rage became white metals #TGS

Edwardian 1901-1910 Edward wanted a new wave - a more hopeful era - lighter colors in jewels and clothes #TGS

@mikekirkwood - thanks Mike - do you know that I am posting from the Tucson Gem Show? #TGS

@Thyme2dream - right - Diana covered the black stones in the Victorian Era - but it was also very common in the Deco era. #TGS

Square and baguette cut were designed in this period by Cartier #TGS


#TGS late Victorian Era - Jet, Bog, Hair, Marcasite, Hematite

Art Nouveau 1895 - 1912 nature subject was leaves the human form and even bugs - natural pearls colored feathers pale variety of beryl #TGS


Lalique 1904 To Have & To Hold Engagement Ring - must see!!! #TGS

Art Nouveau concentration on pastel colored stones mimicking nature and natural pearls #TGS

If you weren't able to go to the Tucson Gem Show this year - Be My Guest - Tucson Gem Show - Live! http://tucsongemshow.blogspot.com #TGS

@aprettyrock - can you imagine-diamonds & pearls sewn to your garments - she said he was known to wear up to 100 pcs of jewelry at once #TGS

___________________
Thank you to:

@aprettyrock

@Jonara Blu

@loupey

@mikekirkwood

@Thyme2dream

...for participating in my first ever Twitter Seminar.

Photo Info: Art Nouveau Ring ( France c. 1904 )

RENE LALIQUE (1860-1945)

'The Betrothal -To Have & To Hold'
Art Nouveau Ring
Gold, enamel & peridot
Length: 1.6 cm (0.6 in) Width: 1.8 cm (0.7 in)
Signed: ‘LALIQUE’
French. Circa 1904
Source: http://www.bada.org/art-and-antiques/detail/38050

Tuesday, February 10, 2009

#TGS - "Colored Gemstones in Antique Jewelry"


"Colored Gemstones in Antique Jewelry" with Diana Jarrett, G.G., RMV.

Diana Jarrett has written articles for most of the trade publications and is a respected gemologist and appraiser. She recently updated the book "Cameos: Old & New" byAnna Miller, G.G. RMV. Following the recent passing of Ms. Miller the publisher sought to update the information in this popular reasource guide. Diana took on the task of updating info, adding new photos and general revisions in this 4th Edition. She was available to talk to and signing copies of her book at the AGTA show.

This seminar was GREAT - to summarize - the things that are the most important to know when looking at antique pieces that contain colored stones is:
*** Know a little about when gems were discovered - for example if some one shows you an antique brooch with a Tanzanite in it - you know that it isn't the original stone for the piece - Tanzanite was discovered in 1967!

*** Know how to distinguish a synthetic and a simulant from a natural gem - gem treatment and simulation started around the Victorian Era and there were important pieces worn that were nothing but paste or glass.
*** Know you periods - if you are approached with an "Art Deco" piece and it is a soft fluid design it show raise red flags.


Samples of jewelry from the various periods covered were available for viewing thanks to eFiligree (http://www.efiligree.com/), a company that was represented on the AGTA floor.

Diana was an engaging and easy to follow speaker - this was a great opening seminar for me and got me excited about the ones to follow!

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